Total Eclipse of the Sun - August 11 1999

Graham Hodson & Colin Harrison

MAS trip to France

The Plan

Shortly before dawn on the morning of Monday, 9th August 1999, twenty-six adults and one child, consisting of MAS members, spouses and relatives, set out by coach from Manchester for a six night stay at a gite in the village of Fontaine-sur-Ay. The village lies approximately 12 miles south-east of Reims, in the heart of the Champagne area of France.

The main purpose of the trip was to observe the Total Solar Eclipse due on Wednesday 11th August, at approximately 12.27pm local time. Secondary to this aim was the opportunity to observe the Perseid meteor shower due around 12th August, and also to observe and photograph the night sky from what was hoped would be a dark sky location.

Monday 9th

Approximately half the party were picked up by the coach in Bury, the remainder joining the coach at UMIST on Sackville Street, Manchester. We left Manchester at 5.20am and proceeded to Folkestone, eventually boarding the "le Shuttle" train at 12.50pm for the 35 minute Channel Tunnel crossing to Calais in France. After brief stops for shopping, the party proceeded via Reims to the tiny village of Fontaine-sur-Ay, arriving at the gite 'Au Beau Sarrazin' somewhat tired at 9.00pm local time, nearly 15 hours after leaving Manchester. This large gite, capable of accommodating more than 30 people, consisted of two converted grain storage buildings separated by a landscaped courtyard and garden. Seven members of the group were housed in the smaller of the two buildings, along with Barry the coach driver and his wife Lorraine. The remaining members of the group were located in the larger building.

John and Pat Bolton, who travelled through France in their car the previous weekend, had arrived at the gite earlier in the day. They reported that the weather had been hot and humid until about the time that our coach had touched French soil, when the sky had started to cloud over and rain threatened. Not a good start!

After a late dinner most of the group retired to bed, as heavy cloud made observation of the night sky impossible, and there was a lot of lost sleep to catch up on!

Tuesday 10th

This morning, following a leisurely breakfast, the group departed at 10.00am for an excursion to nearby Reims. This gave us the opportunity to view the beautiful cathedral of Notre Dame de Reims, with it's splendid stained-glass windows, as well as make last minute purchases of 'eclipse spectacles' and other souvenirs. The day was mostly cloudy but with brief periods of sunshine. A heavy shower of rain occurred about 2.00pm and rain clouds made an ever increasing appearance during the afternoon. That evening more rain showers occurred and most members of the group stayed indoors, to indulge in an evening of socialising, or to make final preparations for the following day's big event. As the clouds became thicker and thicker, a brief meeting was held to discuss what action to take the following day should the weather be poor. It was decided that we would follow the original plan; to head north towards the centre line of totality, regardless of the weather.

Wednesday 11th - Eclipse Day

The day began unpromisingly. Almost total cloud, with small patches of blue sky to the south, greeted us upon rising. Looking to the north, where the centre line would pass, only served to heighten our misery. Great banks of dark cloud stretched as far as we could see.

John Bolton quoted the old saying: "Rain before seven, fine by eleven", but few of the party were convinced of its efficacy.

At 9.30am the coach was loaded with an array of astrophotographic equipment, ranging from simple cameras and tripods to heavyweight driven mounts and even the odd small telescope or two, together with nineteen passengers and we departed on our journey north. A large sign displaying the MAS logo and the motto " Poursuivants extraordinaire de l'éclipse " ( Eclipse chasers extraordinary ) was placed in the rear window of the coach. This subsequently attracted a following of British cars. Perhaps their drivers assumed that the MAS must know something that they did not!

During the journey, eager eyes scanned the heavens for the hoped for break in the clouds. Nerves were taught.

Someone suggested praying for the clouds to disperse, and Colin Henshaw offered to chant the Muslim call to prayer. We were so desperate for clear skies that we took him up on the offer! Whether our prayers were answered will never be known, but the cloud began breaking up into large blocks, lying at different heights, separated by tantalisingly brief glimpses of blue sky.

The chosen site, surveyed the previous year by Messrs Bolton and Parkinson was adjacent to the Monument de Navarin, about twenty miles east of Reims. Although not directly on the centre line of totality, it had been felt that this site was close enough to give about two minutes duration of totality, but away from the expected crowds on the centre line, and with adequate space to park the coach.

On arrival at about 11.00am, it became clear that many others had found this site to be satisfactory also, as more than fifty cars of various nationalities were in evidence. All parking spaces were occupied, together with a stretch of grass verge on the opposite side of the road! Luckily there was just enough space left on this verge to park our coach and it was decided to offload here rather than travelling further.

The nineteen members of our party set about arranging themselves on the grassland to the eastern side of the monument, erecting tripods, binoculars, telescopes, and cameras and lenses of varying sizes. By about 11.30am the flurry of activity had ceased and an air of nervous anticipation crept over us. Some could be seen to be visibly trembling. The sky continued its game of giving fleeting glimpses of the sun whenever the banks of cloud aligned with each other. Through one of these brief gaps it could be observed that a small portion of the sun was now darkened. First contact had occurred already! Anxious eyes peered to the North-east, from where the clouds were coming, hoping to see clearer weather, but to no avail. As the partial phase continued its path across the sun, a number of photographs were taken at various degrees of obscuration, but everyone was by now holding their breath as a large cloud began to pass in front of the sun shortly before the point of second contact was due and another large cloud was inexorably making its way across the sky some distance behind the first. The question in everyone's mind was ' Are we going to be able to see the eclipse?'

Shortly before second contact, a tunnel appeared in the clouds and the final phase could now be seen. The sky was beginning to darken as more and more of the sun was being obscured. Someone began a countdown... "10,9,8,7,6,5,4,3,2,1......no not yet, ...not yet......NOW!"

Totality had occurred. Amid a whirl, cameras clicked, videos whirred, binoculars were cast skyward and welding glass held aloft. "Oh Wow!" someone was heard to say. Loud cheers and clapping could be perceived from the others gathered beyond our party. A champagne cork popped close by.

Professionalism went out of the door in our excitement. One member forgot to remove the mylar filter from his camera lens, and upon discovering this a few wasted shots later remarked, "Oh well! I'll just watch it then" (At least, I think that's what he said!) Another member of our party had their lens out of focus, but this wasn't discovered until after the film was processed some days later. A number of us were so excited and anxious to get a photograph, that we spoiled our shots with camera shake, again a fact not discovered until after processing. Colin Henshaw was busy scribbling temperature and humidity readings in his notebook, as he had been since first contact. Paul Harrison was video-taping the event, using manual exposure control, a method that was to prove very successful.

Part way through the eclipse, cloud cover once more blocked the view. Hearts sank. Fortunately, after about ten or fifteen seconds (it felt more like thirty), the tunnel reappeared, and observation continued.

After what must surely be the fastest two minutes of our lives, the diamond ring suddenly appeared. Then just as suddenly it was gone and a thin crescent began to creep around the edge of the moon. It was all over! The relief of tension was unbelievable. Members smiled, laughed, hugged each other, thankful that the clouds had held off long enough for them to get their long awaited view of the final total eclipse of the millennium. Colin Henshaw continued to make temperature and humidity readings until fourth contact, while the rest of us returned to the coach much elated, to enjoy a coffee and discuss our respective feelings about the eclipse...Did you see all those prominences? ...There wasn't such a large corona as Hawaii... That diamond ring was stunning... It didn't go as dark as I thought it would... I wonder if the other members in Cornwall saw it?

We departed from our observing site about 2.00pm and returned to the gite. Upon arrival, the members of our party who had opted to remain there, informed us that they too had been able to observe the eclipse, with an unrestricted view lasting about 75 seconds. We were very pleased for them, as although they were not amateur astronomers, we felt that a total eclipse of the sun was a natural phenomena that should be enjoyed by everyone.

That evening everybody was in a party mood, and a fair quantity of alcohol was consumed in celebration of the successful culmination of an excursion that had taken nearly five years planning and preparation. Sadly, the night sky returned to it's current practice of totally clouding over after sunset and very little observing could take place. A few members did stay awake till the early hours in the hope of the sky clearing and were rewarded with clearer views towards dawn when some Perseid meteors were observed.

Thursday 12th

Today we had a planned excursion to a local Champagne House in nearby Epernay. Leaving the gite about 11.00am (thankfully, for those recovering from the excesses of the previous night) we proceeded to the House of Mansard. There, after an informative and interesting tour of their production facilities and caves, we were invited to a tasting session. Expecting only a small glass to savour, we were rather surprised when each of three champagne glasses was filled almost to the brim with a selection of Brut, Grand Cru, and Pink champagne... A very jovial group returned to the coach that afternoon.

We then continued into the centre of Epernay for about three hours of free time for shopping and sightseeing, before returning to the gite about 6.00pm.

Later that evening, whilst socialising at the smaller building, Colin Harrison remarked that there was an Iridium Satellite due over our location, and promptly disappeared back to the large building. We assumed he had gone to collect his chart showing time and location of transit, so that we might all view the passing of the satellite. But when he failed to return, we resigned ourselves to occasionally glancing up at what had become our first clear night sky of the trip so far. Luck was with us, as Bob Parkinson remarked about a dim light moving across the sky "I think that might be an Iridium" and it was! A brief flash of about magnitude -1 and it continued on it's path southwards. Various other satellites were observed crossing the sky during a pleasant evening spent sat outside, complemented by a glass or two of good French wine and some interesting conversation.

This was also the night of the Perseid meteor maximum, and a number of these were observed during the evening, as well as the occasional sporadic. Some cloud began to appear about midnight, and a good number retired for the night as a result. Other members of our party, notably Tony Deveraux and Mark Adamson, were more seriously observing the Perseid meteors at the rear of the large building; a more detailed account of which may be found elsewhere in Current Notes.

Friday 13th

Originally we had planned to visit the War Graves near the Somme, but it was decided at a brief meeting held the previous night that this journey would be too far to achieve comfortably in one day by coach. With this in mind the venue was changed, at the suggestion of our driver Barry, to a trip to Paris. He offered to drive to the city, give us a conducted tour of the main sights and then park up and leave us to spend a few hours sightseeing for ourselves.

The day began in the usual manner of broken cloud with clear blue sky, but the cloud thinned during the journey to Paris, and the sky was wonderfully clear with brilliant sunshine by journeys end.

Arriving in Paris about 11.00am, we had a scenic coach tour of the city, before Barry parked the coach near to the Eiffel Tower. He had suggested a boat trip along the Seine, to which we gladly concurred, and for a cost of 50 Francs each, spent a very pleasant hour cruising up and down the river.

After returning to the Eiffel Tower, we had an hour to explore on foot. Some of us took the opportunity to ascend the Tower, although only to the second level, given the time restriction.

Afterwards, we drove to Place de la Concorde, parked up again, and spent a further couple of hours exploring this area, shopping on the Champs Elyseé, or spending a restful time in the park. Returning to the gite about 7.00pm, everyone agreed that this had been an excellent day out, and a vote of thanks was offered to Barry for his wonderful idea.

Unfortunately, the evening sky adopted its now common pattern of heavy banks of cloud interspersed with very brief glimpses of only the brightest stars, and occasional rain showers.

Saturday 14th

Saturday had been planned as a rest day, during which everyone could do as much or as little as they pleased. Some organised an impromptu game of boules, others went for walks in the surrounding countryside, or simply sat down with a good book. The sky was very cloudy and rain threatened all afternoon. In the early evening a tremendous rainstorm occurred, lasting only a few minutes, but this was sufficient for those staying in the larger gite, having left their skylight windows open for ventilation, to discover some rather damp beds later!

That evening after dinner, a presentation took place when Pat Bolton and Irene Roughley were presented with silk scarves and boxes of chocolates, and Jo Parkinson with chocolates and "wine", in appreciation of the hard work they had put in over the past year or so, organising this eclipse excursion. Irene was also presented with a brooch, as a token of thanks from those staying in the larger gite for cooking their breakfast and dinner each day.

Most members of the party packed up their equipment and luggage, ready for the return journey the following day, and then spent a pleasant evening socialising.

About 11.00pm. the weather changed, and the sky cleared. Brilliant views of the night sky could be seen at last. Ray Brierley, using his large (15 x 80) binoculars, was picking out Messier objects for fun! Over 20 were observed in under half an hour. Many meteors were also clearly visible, again some Perseid and some sporadic, appearing at about one minute intervals.

On one occasion, a Perseid's path was crossed immediately afterwards by a sporadic, the path of which was then crossed by yet another Perseid. Three meteors in the same patch of sky in as many seconds! Graham Hodson, who unpacked his camera again after seeing such a wonderful display, managed to capture two separate shots of meteors using a 50mm lens and thirty second exposures on Fuji 1600 film, but at about midnight, the meteors appeared to stop, as if someone had turned the lights off. However, we were reliably informed by those that remained observing, that the meteors returned later and continued to be seen until dawn. To the rear of the large gite, Colin Henshaw was observing variable stars, and Tony Deveraux and Mark Adamson carried out their second all night watch of the Perseids. At dawn, the greatest western elongation of Mercury was observed and photographed. Further details of these observations may be found elsewhere in Current Notes.

Sunday 15th

We departed Fontaine-sur-Ay at about 8.30am and made our way to Calais. With a brief stop for final purchases of wines and spirits, we again travelled via the Channel Tunnel and were back on to English soil about 1.30pm. Heading North via the M6, we made a brief stop at Keele Services for a light snack and drinks before arriving in Manchester at about 7.00pm, where half our party alighted, the remainder continuing on to Bury.

Conclusion

This had been a very successful trip. Not only did we manage to see the Total Eclipse, but also observed at least some of the passing Perseid meteors, as well as having a thoroughly pleasant short holiday.


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Last updated 10 April, 2007